River water flows. Paying the boatman I feel the world ethereal. Like the honored dead this Charon guides me not to paradise but a time past. Hemdu comes to view. Cradled between three mountains I feel the peace this land granted those so long ago. Fertile earth ever nurtured by floods. Early evidence of rice, agriculture, settlement. What wonder these people were witness to. Their harvest celebration was joyous. What did their shaman see in oracle bones? What comets passed between their seasons? What were their honored principles? This is a sacred place. Dedicated to human endeavor. I find myself standing on their shoulders. One in a long string. I do not take this for granted.